I love it!!!

good morning. after starving all day yesterday, i feel like eating a huge piece of steak for breakfast. my eye? don’t know yet. still have the patch and will be heading to the hospital today to get it taken off and checked. i’m just hoping that i don’t have to go through this again. i still have flashbacks of the needle going into my eye. they gave me pain killers but i don’t want to take it. it will make me feel weird and i won’t be able to do anything. so i will just endure the pain again and just see how much i can handle. i don’t have time to complain because i have my hand surgery tomorrow. i’m glad i have insurance because i just got my bill for going to the ER room 3 weeks ago for x-rays of my hand. that was $1,150. my eye surgery was about $2,400 yesterday, and my hand surgery? probably big bucks too. medical insurance in hawaii is a must and if you don’t have it, stay home all day and don’t live a dangerous life like me. because if you do, you will be homeless in no time. well, gotta get going. have a nice rainy day!!! yeah!!! rain baby rain!!!
as for the waves, the north shore is looking 3-5′ and junky. already kind of windy. town has some small waves at bowls with clean perfect conditions. everybody take a 1 month break with me. haha…

i wanted to thank jun from nine surf for setting things up for our group when we were in hiroshima. i’ve known jun for a long time. jun’s cool, mellow, and surfs really good. here we are in nine surf shop with his new baby Karen… kawaii!!!

after dinner, we went to grab a few drinks at a bar in town. all these guys are cool!!! fron the back left, it’s Goto-san, next to him is Dr. Ito-san, then right back in Jun, then me, and last, obara-san. the people in hiroshima are super kind and good surfers!!! thanks and see you guys again!!!

i wanted to thank Goto-san for this rare bottle of shoyu. this shoyu in put into a recycled beer bottle and made on an island right off hiroshima. as soon as i get some sashimi, i’m going to sample it. itadakimasu!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR NINE SURF JUN’S BLOG….
**and last, check out this photo my friend sent me. this is a photo of dove wetsuits rider takayuki wakita charging pipeline 2 days ago. 15′ hawaiian scale? i think so. sick photo!! go wakita!!!

good evening. what a long day. because i had surgery today, i couldn’t eat or drink anything all day. it’s 4:30pm and i just got home. i’m so hungry!!! my doctor said it went good but i don’t know. i’m still traumatized by watching the needles and stuff going into my eye. they cut off the bad part, then cut a good part from behind my eye, and pasted it. well, stitched it. can you believe they took my eyeball out??? while i was semi-awake? it was pretty terrifying and if they didn’t strap down my hands, i would have punched my doctor. i hope i never have to go through this again…..

drugged out on vicadan pain killers, i forgot who i was. the only thing that made me happy today was walking out of the hospital looking at the dark sky and rain. i hope it’s like this for the next month….

while i was waiting for my surgery, my high school teacher walked by and recognized me. i recognized him too. this is Mr. Chu. he was the coolest teacher at kaiser high school. he just retired after teaching up there for 59 years. amazing. and get this, he’s 80 years old. what a fine and energetic grandpa. it was good seeing you Mr. Chu. and sorry for all the hard time i gave you in high school….

check out this oden toda-san and takami-san brought for me for omiyage….

i can’t wait to eat it!!! itadakimasu…. thank you guys…