Surf Report: Chest High and Fun… That’s if you know where to go….
Early Morning Session…
GO-NAMINORI=V??-SURFAR
good morning. wow, it’s already 11am and i totally spaced out on my blog. i didn’t know until a friend called to see if i was ok. haha… that’s funny. i just got out of the water so stay tuned later for photos. have a nice day…
here are some photos from my library. this is the moniz family. all good kids with the ultimate surf support from their parents. they are walking across a park where we all grew up in. every time i go there, i can remember my grandma sitting on the bench watching us play in the jungle gym and see saw. then my grandpa would be on the side in stealth mode ready to throw his net on a school of mullet. then we would all go back to the house and eat the fish my grandpa caught with the best miso soup made by my grandma. and i was only like 7 years old. it’s those memories that will last a lifetime….
then check out these big rainbow runners out at a secret dive spot somewhere on the tip of the island of bali. swimming there with my camera was an awesome experience….
and last, i want to respond to a few comments sent to me. i appreciate every one of them and will get back to you all someday….
**thanks ricardo in brazil for checking out my blog. yeah, the weather is nice almost everyday in hawaii. as for seeing a whale while diving? i actually just seen one in indonesia. it swam 15′ away from me and if i swam up to it, i probably could have touched it. and you can hear the whale sounds everyday in the winter season here. it’s kind of peaceful diving and listening them. my dream is to get a photo of a huge sperm whale with my fisheye camera. and i can see that dream coming….
**george from maui wrote: “love the videos, thats how life should be.” yeah george, this is how life should be. thanks for the comment….
**genjimilo, hang in there man. arizona’s a great place. wait… i haven’t been there before. where the heck is that? haha. but hang in there. get good grades, graduate from high school, and go for your dreams!!! but remember, education is first. the waves will always be there….
** shin-san, thank you for the email. shun is doing fine. he got to hawaii safe and i put him in the best situation possible. the moniz house. yeah, he will be staying there and i won’t be stopping by to translate or do anything for him. i think that’s the only way he will learn english and learn the true hawaiian family life. he’s in good hands and i’m sure tony’s coaching will push him up a level. yeah, i’ll meet up and surf with them but the farther i stay away, i think the better for shun. shun’s a good kid with a good future. i get daily updates from tony so i will keep you all posted. last night, he went to seth’s friends house up the street for dinner. saturday shun surfs with hawaii’s best in the rip curl grom contest at kewalo’s. i entered him in the 12 and under division. the competition is tough but shun’s surfing level is right up there with everybody else. i’ll be there cheering him on… anyway, take care and tell everybody in yugawara i said “hello”. see you all soon….
** thank you claudio from brazil for the cool comments on my vids and blog. i’m glad you and your father made it to hawaii. and also, thanks for teaching me the brazilian language.
GO-SURF=GO-NAMINORI=V??-SURFAR
Where to EAT????
good evening. earlier today, i had my mind set on eating a healthy lunch. so i drove to china town to eat at this pho place. i hear it’s the best pho on the island and when i got there, the line was so dam long. i’m too busy to be waiting in line….
so instead, i drove over to rainbow drive in and waiting in a car line in the parking lot. it was so packed… i ended up eating a huge chili plate with barbecue beef on the side. gosh, i felt like a pig after. i should have just waited for the pho yeah? i think so too….
then i went back to china town to buy my favorite!!! yup, right there….
grab a few shrimp for dinner? why not?
then go get my international drivers license. i can’t believe it’s still only $15…. so after running around town all morning, i came home at 12pm and was on my computer ever since. work will never end. i’m glad i play a lot because if i didn’t, i’d be stressing out….
**as for the surf today. it was small and windy. thank goodness because i got a lot of things done… as for tomorrow, i’m surfing no matter what….. have a great evening…