good morning. 5:30 am sunday. the surf report forecasted the waves to be small this morning but i still see head high sets in town. the conditions are perfect!!! only 5 guys out at bowls and 8 guys out at ala moana park. i think this morning will be uncrowded because everybody must have had a long crazy celebration last night. i slept early so i can surf before the sunday crowd. i’m out of here… have a nice day….
they still had the flotilla yesterday outside of queen’s. the only thing is that the band didn’t show up due to the swell. oh well, next year…
ala moana park and waikiki were so crowded yesterday. i think everybody forgot to check diamond head. except me. it was uncrowded and the waves were super fun. i got some good waves so i was stoked…
just another beautiful sunset over the mountains….
last nights fireworks show was pretty cool. i was driving home and seen it from near my house. it lit up the skies of waikiki….
and last, can you guess where this is???
Forgotten Diamond Head….
ALA MOANA HANABI TAIKAI…
Happy 4th OF JULY!!!
The King of Sports…..
happy 4th of july!!! i tried to surf today but no luck. absolutely no parking!!! it seems like the whole island is at ala moana today waiting for the fireworks show tonight. it’s going to be an awesome show and i’ll be there for sure!!! i might have to ride my skateboard…. anyway, happy independence day to you all… drive safe and have a great evening…
we’ve been shooting for a japanese magazine the past few days. we do this every year on the south shore and it’s cool to meet up with everybody and surf together. i can just sit around and talk story all day. yesterday, i was watching the waves and talking to kondo-san and shuji kasuya for a couple of hours. unlike the north shore, the south shore is all about having fun with no pressure of catching the biggest and best wave. i guess you can call it “happy surfing”….
and the south shore is not about only us having fun, it’s about everybody having fun….
i’ve been putting on destination deck patches on my small boards recently. it protects my tail while giving me traction. this is the new mikala jones pad. i’m going to try it tomorrow and hope i can get as many barrels as mikala gets……
**and last, my friend scott countryman lives the dream life in the philippines. i sent him an email a few weeks ago thanking him for inspiring me back in 2003. since then, it has been my dream to own a big boat and surf the world just like he does. i just need a couple more million dollars and i’ll be there… haha.. thanks scott and hope to surf and dive with you this typhoon season in the philippine sea…