DIAMOND HEAD 8AM.
2-4′ AND FUN.
GO-NAMINORI.

3-4′ Ala Moana Bowls at 6:30 am. Going Off!!!!

good morning. 6 am thursday morning. wow, another south swell!!! the waves are looking like 3-4′ and epic!!! 20 guys out at bowls, and 50 or so at the park. clean morning conditions and probably onshore winds by 9am, just like yesterday. well, i’m surfing all day long… see you in the water….

when i woke up early yesterday morning, i made a mistake. i put dog food in my cereal bowl instead of cheerios. oh my gosh!! what if i put milk in and started to eat it? would i grow hair?? haha… i took it out and put in my favorite cheerios…..

i was out on the north shore the other day and couldn’t believe the traffic. it was crazy…

then coming back was more crazy….

and last, starting today in hawaii, no talking on the phone while driving. if you get caught, you will have to pay. i got my earphone so i should be ok. drive safe!!