good morning. i’m feeling super great!!! when i got back from japan, i knew i didn’t get enough exercise. well, not enough to burn off all that delicious food i’ve been eating. so i’ve been on a pretty strict diet with a lot of exercise. no plate lunches, no loco moco’s, and no alcohol. yesterday i felt like i could have hiked mt. fuji again. i surfed one round in the morning, swam kaimana beach at lunch, surfed diamond head lighthouse in the evening, went straight after for a 1 hour run around diamond head, then did 1 hour of yoga at the park. it’s been a long time since my body has felt so good. after yoga, i was thinking to myself that all i have to do is free dive for a day and i’ll be 100% ready for my next trip….

i don’t think diamond head gets any better than it’s been these past few days. lighthouse was going off yesterday evening and not too many guys were out. i seen shuji, danno, and cedric paddle in as i was going out. i was stoked to see them but also stoked they all came in. that meant more waves for me.. haha…

when i was running, i turned the corner around KCC and seen one of the most amazing sunsets. the sun was so big and orange. i wanted to get a photo but there were too many telephone wires in the way so i ran faster and faster till i could get a good view. by that time, the sun set… shit!!! next time….

i got a call from a dive buddy last night. he asked me if i wanted to dive? what kind of question is that? of course i want to dive….. so i got everything together and i’m ready to go. and that’s the reason i’m up so early. wanna know the surf report? don’t ask me. call 596-7873. i hope everywhere is flat. and i hope i can get some fish today!! haha… have a nice day and stay tuned for photos!!!
**by the way, still getting a lot of comments on this video. thanks everybody and keep them coming. enjoy!!

Sugokunai?

good evening. wow!! what a great day for waves around the island. is this an endless summer or what? i checked everywhere this morning and it looked pretty crowded. so i drove 15 minutes to this secret spot that catches the south/east swell and guess what? only one guy out. yeah, it was super fun and it felt good to surf in warm clean water with nobody around. i heard the waves on the north shore were good too but why drive all the way out there when i can surf head high waves 10 minutes from my house? i love this place!!!

diamond head lighthouse has been looking pretty dam good these past days. when ever there is a south/east swell with no winds, that’s the best spot on the south shore. i even seen some barrels out there. just watch out for the reef and the guys breaking into cars on the top…

then i went to china town to pick up fruits for this weeks diet. it feels good to eat healthy and drink no alcohol. i’m just wondering how long that will last? haha…

imagine throwing all this into a pot of boiling water, put some dashi, miso, and maybe some seafood. you got yourself an awesome nabe!! itadakimasu!!!

then take some of these black chicken feet to go along with your beer? yuck!!!
**another bigger north swell on the way but before that, get ready for more days of perfect glassy surf around the whole island. gosh, i’m the luckiest guy enjoying this endless summer….