good morning. 6:15am and i’m not going to even check the waves this morning. i can feel it’s good. i’m going to surf 2x today for sure so i better get out of here… have a nice day…
hey, i finally bought a new suitcase. it’s a 25″ samsonite suitcase that looks like a louis vuitton bag or something. these things cost over $1,000 in japan but i got mine brand new for $119. and it comes with a life time warranty so i’ll have it for the rest of my life. i’m so happy!!!
samsonite alta black label is what it’s called. check it out and don’t ask me where i bought it from because i ain’t telling… haha…
** i want to thank everybody for the emails.
To: Sonja, what do i do for a living? that’s a great question. i think i try to be happy for a living. nah… i guess you can say i’m lucky to have such great sponsors in japan that have been supporting me for half my life doing what i love to do best, which is surfing. if it wasn’t for them, i wouldn’t be the here writing a response on my blog because i probably would be working in an office all day and drinking my life away all night and yes, i have freaking fun every day. it’s a tough job but somebody has to do it. mahalo…
To: Marvin, wow, you live in germany? cool… grab your girlfriend, daughter, and immigrate to hawaii. your life will never be the same. and sorry, i won’t be able to adopt you guys. my house is too small. haha.. as for kelia, i will give her your message. yes, i think she will leave big marks in surfing history too. i really appreciate your support for us. and we will be working on getting this site fully up in english too. your not the first one requesting that. and yeah, maybe someday we can sit down and drink a heinaken together…
To: Cassidy, thanks for the photos of ryan’s new “Da Perch”. i’ll post the photos as soon as i get a chance. keep on exploring in the making of surfboards…
To: Warren, no, i haven’t been to vietnam before. i was thinking about going there in october. those pics you sent me of that wave in vietnam are amazing… give me the GPS mark and i’ll see ya there someday… haha…
To: Ryuichi, thanks for the dolphin photos… you made my day…
To: Scott, thanks for supporting my blog. i’ll be in okinawa soon partying with all the boys. i’ll tell them you said “what’s up”…..
**and to everybody else that sent in comments to me on youtube and go-naminori. thanks so much!! you guys are the best!!! and yes, i will reply soon. i’m only like 300 emails backed up…
Samsonite Black Label Suitcase…
Fresh Catch of The Day….
we went to the best plate lunch shop in hawaii that’s right down my street. toda-san ordered the poke bowl. pick any kind of poke you want and put it over 2 scoops of rice. so good….
the owner of the shop gave me a bowl of fresh poi that he just made. you can’t buy this anywhere. it’s not for sale but he was nice enough to give me some. and it was so dam good….
this is the 3rd bottle of jacksan toda-san and takami-san bought me. i’m so stoked!! this bottle is going with me on my next boat trip and i’ll be sipping it watching a beautiful sunset go down in the indian ocean…. banzai!!
it’s so cool to have family that surfs. that’s the best way to enjoy quality time together….
**by the way, get this story. i surfed queen’s this morning and was walking back to my car parked at the zoo. these 2 guys from brazil came up to me and said in broken english, “hey, your the youtube guy making the video’s of hawaii”. then he told me “you are the reason why we came to hawaii to surf. you are the reason why we are right here right now dude.” that really made me happy…..
**and last, when ever i take photos at queen’s. everybody is so nice to me. they come up and say “good morning”, and “getting any good ones”. so much aloha…. but today, i paddled out to surf on my short board and i got a totally different vibe then what i got yesterday. no aloha. yeah, the nice guys weren’t so nice anymore. i don’t know if they didn’t recognize me or something but there were no smily faces or greetings. actually some of them were assholes. so as i paddled in, i decided what i’m going to do from now on. take photos of only nice people, and don’t even waste my time taking photos of the assholes. and let me tell you, i remember each one of them. and all guys that dropped in on me and my friends today, yup, your photos are all going into my trash can and will be deleted forever… i’m tired of being a nice guy to people that aren’t nice….
South and North Swell..
Sunny Fun Diamond Head….