good evening. gosh, today was another beautiful hot day here in hawaii. the waves were going off on the north shore but i had better things to do….

like going to the auto junk yard out in pearl city. if you ever need parts for your car and don’t want to pay full price, go to ABC salvage and buy things for pennies….

i came home and was cleaning out my garage. i have a four stroke yamaha 4hp motor that i totally forgot about. i’m going to put some gas in it and warm it up. then maybe put it on my longboard and cruise around the island…..

when HT’s was big, i swam out to take some water shots. i was looking for a underwater shot of a surfer passing by me in the barrel. so as 6′ + bombs broke over my head, i was laying on the bottom looking backwards at the wave rolling by me. i remember this guy falling in the barrel right on the side of me as i snapped this photo. look how close his head is from the reef. 12 more inches and he would have to go to the hospital. the hospital 10 hours away in padang. and would he have made it? that’s a good question. if you surf mentawai and get hurt, don’t expect an ambulance or coast guard to come and get you. the only way back to the small hospital in padang is by boat 10 hours away…. i get scared even thinking about it….

3pm diamond head surf check. FLAT!!!