Nice Surfing Day in Hawaii…. Ala Moana Bowls Desu….

good morning. wow, i’ve been getting some good sleep. it’s 8am and i’d better get going. have a little trip tomorrow that i’m looking forward too. got to get ready for it. oh, the waves are looking fun. chest high sets still left over at bowls. 9 guys out. and north shore has a little swell going. see 4 guys out at pipe. bigger north/west swell on monday with excellent conditions. waves for everyone!!! have a nice day….

this was my bed on the boat for 11 nights. it was pretty dam comfortable…

next to my pillow was a book i bought from an used book store in hawaii. it’s called “ENDURE” and is about a 17 year old japanese/american girl that wrote her story about the internment camp during world war 2. did you know that over 120,000 first and second generation japanese americans had to go to an internment camp after the war started? yeah, the US military rounded them up so they had to sell everything they had and go to these camps, or should i say, PRISON. i’ve heard a lot about the camps but after reading this book, i got a little pissed off at our government for doing that. it’s amazing how much american japanese had to ENDURE. anyway, after reading this book, my feelings still are the same about the war. nobody won, we all lost…
**get this, one quiet night while everybody was sleeping, somebody yelled at the top of their voice “STOP, STOP, STOP” in the middle of the night. and everybody woke up except for me. that was me dreaming… haha… sorry guys….

good evening. the cut on my foot is still infected and leaking fluids so i decided to clean it in the best medicine out there, the ocean. i jumped in at kewalos and as soon as i touched the water, it felt and looked much better. 2 more days of ocean medicine and it should be ok. as for the waves, 2′ and fun. i caught my second wave and as i was paddling back out, this guy ran me right over. i couldn’t believe it… so i caught one more wave and went in. everybody’s been telling me how good the waves have been but i’m still in my mentawai dreams. so i come back home and get through 1,000 emails or so. my eyes are burning and my shoulders are hurting so i’m done for today. going to sleep early and by tomorrow morning, i should be back to 100%. just wanted to take this time to thank all of your lovely emails. i’m so happy to be doing what i do. thanks for the support…. mahalo
**i had 2 choices. either hang out in the big city of kuala lumpur, or go exploring where no tourists around. i chose the second. as soon as i landed in kuala lumpur, i stored my baggage at the airport storage, packed up my backpack, and was ready for anything. i booked an airlines ticket and headed to the east side of malaysia, kuala terengganu to be exact. from there, i took a local bus ride all the way to kota bharu, which was the city a stone throw away from thailand. great food and great experience all the way….

i pretty much went to malaysia to eat and explore. this stand was in a little city and was owned by a chinese man. there were uncooked yakitori style food lined up and ready to cook. you grab what you want, cook it yourself in the hot oil or hot water, then dip it into a special sauce, and eat it. it was really good. then after you eat, the chinese man comes and counts your sticks. the color of the stick determines the price. i think i paid $1.20 or something. beef, pork, shrimp, squid, liver, fish, and pretty much everything. it was cheap and good. i wish we had one of these in hawaii…

next stop. a fresh picked coconut for 80 cents. it sure beats spending $3.50 at the aloha stadium swap meet….

then i jumped on a speed boat to checked out this island. i’m not going to tell you where it is but this island was rated top 10 most beautiful islands on the travel channel. emerald color water, white sandy beaches, and green forest. it was pretty dam nice but i prefer oahu much more…..

then it was back to the market to look, and eat…. this one is in kota bharu but don’t let this photo trick you. if you seen how many flies and how stink this market was, you would throw up. it was so bad that i ate at a nearby mcdonalds that day. and there were a lot of flies in there too…. yuck. this is one market where i will never go to again, unless i start to like eating flies. there were other clean markets that i will get to later. i pretty much ate like a malaysian for the whole time i was there. spicy, spicy, and spicy…