so here i am sitting here on the boat after day 7. there is just too many photos and too many stories to post. 3 photographers together have the most amazing photos ever. i’ve never seen so many good photos in one surf trip, and it ain’t even over yet. we are heading to some secret spots and this might be my last blog from mentawai. i’m going to start gathering the photos and video clips together to make on of the best surf trip story ever published. what magazine? don’t worry, be happy. keep you posted. but for now, i’m going to enjoy the last 4 days. then after this trip is done, i’m going to do some exploring in another country on the way back to japan. eat sushi during my transit, then back home to hawaii. please nobody call me to surf because that’s the last thing i want to do. i’m going to put some time aside to plan another boat trip for next year. and i can’t wait!!!
and if you thought our sunsets were amazing back home in hawaii or japan. take a look at this. this was our sashimi and bintang time every single night. wish you were here… mahalo and see you all soon…..
**by the way, for all my friends that are planning to come to hawaii in june, i have bad news. i won’t be there. another adventure came up that i couldn’t refuse. so june 6th to the end of june, i’ll be off island. well, actually on another island, or islands. i learned a lot on this surf trip. and that is to travel more. travel, experience, and life a happy life….
Magical Sunset Sashimi Time…..
Dream Barrels: Day 7
salamat pagi. after a long party last night, this is what we woke up too… dream barrels…. and a lot of hangovers… lance’s rights DOESN’T get better than this..
i jumped in to try to get some water shots mid morning. it was such a beautiful day. sunny skies, clean barrels, and clear water. what more could you ask for? this is zuccho getting ready for a crystal clear barrel….
i cut my foot, scratched my back, broke my board, hayato cut his hand and broke his board, genki-san cut his arm that needed a stitch, and also cut his leg, furuya-san cut his arm, zuccho cut his hand, kohtsuya hurt his back, and here is numajiri with scars on his back for life. think our job is easy? think again….
Perfect Lance's Right Birthday Present: Day 6
hello hello from lance’s rights. today was one of the most greatest days of my life. i can’t explain it in a blog, i need more like a book. too keep it short, it all started off waking up at macaroni’s with nobody else around. 4′ and barreling!!! only japanese at macaroni’s? yup, another day of just us scoring perfect barrels…. then we hit the outer reef to catch some sashimi for tokura-san’s birthday. job done. we not only caught 1 big fish, we caught 2. then we pulled into lances right’s at 2pm and the waves were going off!!! 4-6′ and the best it ever gets. then it was the birthday celebration for tokura-san. 7 bottles of champagne, 1 big bottle of jacksan, and a lot of bintangs. my head still hurts….
tokura-san turned 60 and it’s a japanese tradition to wear a red vest. the boys at dove took care of that. a custom wetsuit for a custom guy… happy birthday tokura-san….
we thought we scored macaroni’s in the morning. then when we pulled up to lance’s right, nobody could believe how good it was. everybody was getting barreled. but the highlight of the session was watching a 60 year old hard core travel surfer get a perfect barrel and make it. that surfer was tokura-san…..
if you freedive deep. you will see things that normal people will never see. this was a dream dive session for me. first a huge GT, then a sawara. i used my 100cm stock picasso reef gun with no tag line. so when i speared these fish 60′ under, i had to hold on for my life. good thing hayato came and gave the kill shots. if he wasn’t there, i would still be fighting this fish underwater. and if you seen the sashimi platter we had for our evening bintang session, you would freak…
