hello hello or should i say salamat pagi!! we pulled out of padang last night and headed to where? straight to the world class and one of the best right handers in the world. HT’s, Hollow trees, or Lances Rights. call it what ever you want but this wave is awesome. we got here at 6am and the waves were going off!! there was one other boat so it was uncrowded. then that boat left and it was just us. EVERYONE got good waves and everybody got barreled. i surfed 3 rounds and got one of my best barrels of the year. solid 4′ and perfect. i took a nap after lunch and looked out my window to see numajiri surfing with only one other guy out. surfing ht’s so uncrowded is pretty rare. evening came and it was either surf, or dive. my dive partner hayato got hurt from hitting the reef so he couldn’t dive with me. diving alone is really dangerous but not having sashimi on the boat is dangerous too. so i dove alone for an hour and a half. it was slow until i found this rock in 35′ deep water surrounded by fish. i filled up my stringer, called the dingy, and came back. that was 6pm and now it’s 9pm. after 3 bintang beers, dinner, sashimi, 5 jack and cokes, and lots of fun, i’m sitting here in the captains room typing this email. after 19 years of traveling, i have to say that this is my best first day of any trip i’ve been on. i could go home tomorrow and be satisfied. but that’s not going to happen. i’m here for 10 more days and if everyday is like how today was, slap my face and wake me up. i’m buzzing from surfing, i’m buzzing from diving, and i’m buzzing from drinking. this is the dream life. the life i want to live forever. anyway, i’m signing off from the middle of the indian ocean via satellite email aboard the sanscousi2. i’ll see ya all back tomorrow. but for now, we got more fishing and drinking to do before the lights go out. last, dreams come true!! believe me!!! teremakasih……
by the way, because it costs so much to send out an email from this boat. i think hayato wants to say something too….. kirby
ohhhhhh my goshhhhhhhhh!!!
unreal trip.
got to get back to my bintang,,,,
lates
hayato

i seen this speed boat at the expo and was thinking what would happen if i owned it…

i’d probably die….

check out this magazine advertisement that caught my eye. “HAPPINESS. IT JUST TAKES A MOMENT”…. remember that….

ok, i knew that the new surfboard charges went into effect but i wanted to investigate. not only for me, but for all us surfers that travel on japan airlines. so i pack 1 board in my board bag along with my dive guns and fins so my bag is kind of heavy. i pull up to honolulu airport and check in. the girl at the counter asked me how many boards i have in my bag. i say 1. she asks me again. i say 1. she told me to open my bag. i said no. she asked me again to open my bag, i said no. i was smart and put a lock on my bag so they couldn’t open it. she asked me again to open it. i said “why do i have to open it? i told you that there is only 1 board in there.” but she insisted and even called the security guard to open it. i didn’t want the guy to break my new lock so i opened my bag. she felt around and made sure that there was only 1 board in there. then she told the other girl “yeah, there is only 1 board”. i just stood there and shook my head…
*then my JAL friend met me near the gate and i told her to tell the girl sorry. i didn’t want to be mean or anything, i just wanted to know how far us surfers can go without being drastically over charged. times have changed. airlines hate surfers. why can golfers take a heavier golf bag for free? why can you take a bicycle on for free? why can seth moniz tell the agent that there is a guitar in his surfboard box and get it on for free? i don’t get it. i’m kind of bummed at the new charges but i guess we have to live with it. what can we do? either travel with only 1 board and hope you don’t break it and ruin the rest of your trip. or marry a millionaire and take as many boards you want. but just remember this, the JAL staff WILL open your board bag and count your boards so don’t bother trying to be sneaky. it won’t work…. good luck surfers….