i finally did it!
my dream came true!
i am on top of the world!
mt. fuji desu!
this is heaven…
Chiba Super Bank….
good evening. i had a great day yesterday in chiba. the waves were going off at torami. i’ve never surfed such a long right at a beach break in japan. i paddled into 3 waves and felt pretty good. then my shoulder started hurting so i called it a day..
i’ve been riding a mike woo cyber board recently. it’s the lightest board on the market….
i bumped into matsuo-san his boys…. i think they all scored good waves…
this is hide-san and his boys. hide-san by the way caught the longest right i’ve ever seen at a beach break and i bet it was the longest right he’s ever caught in his life. 100 meter ride? yup…
**wanted to say thanks to everybody’s kindness in chiba. i had a great time and can’t wait to go back to surf the super bank again. mahalo….
Bond Surf….
i posted this photo on my blog the other night when i was at bond surf. now i have a chance to sit down and explain this photo. haru-san is on the left. i’ve known and heard a lot about haru-san for years and years. but it wasn’t until we actually sat down and drank a few drinks, or should i say a lot of drinks for 11 days straight on a boat in the mentawai’s until i really got to know him. haru-san’s a very kind surfer that has a big heart and a huge world around him. every time i’m in his shop, somebody we both know seems to walk in. it’s pretty amazing how small this world is. or should i say how big haru-san’s world is…
haru-san is also an awesome surfer. wait till you see the upcoming photos of our mentawai trip coming up. as for this photo, i stole it off the bond surf website….
**CLICK HERE FOR BONDSURF128.COM…..
the man in the middle of the photo is okuta-san. i met okuta-san about 8 years ago in chiba. he took me fishing on his boat, we had some beers, and our party ended up at some bar in hawaii a year later. okuta-san’s a fisherman, surfer, and enjoys his life. sounds familiar??? haha.. i guess we have a lot in common… oh wait, one thing we don’t have in common is our bank accounts. okuta-san happens to own a very successful billion dollar business in japan. i hope my day comes soon…. yes, i’m a positive thinker….
bosses that surf are cool!!!!
**CLICK HERE FOR OKUTA-SAN’S WEBSITE…..