Surf And Pool….

good evening. i went early to the north shore, pulled up to backdoor and had to make a decision. it was 3-5′ and kind of weird. good wave direction, but windy and not too good. i knew that today was probably my last session of the 2008-09 north shore season so i was sitting on the beach wondering what to do. paddle out to backdoor, wait an hour and maybe catch one good one? no, i’m too busy for that. or go to velzyland and catch 40 waves? it took me 1 minute to make my decision and before you know it, i was in my car driving to velzyland. oh my gosh!!! the waves were so good and the lineup was empty. i caught more than 40 waves and got barreled about 8 times. the waves were going off!!! i got out of the water at 9am and was on my way back home. what an awesome way to end off my season. thanks north shore…. but wait, i might go back out there again….

it’s been a while since i trained at the pool. it felt pretty good, except for the stink chlorine smell on my body now… that’s so unhealthy…

i’ve been too dam busy to take photos of the waves recently. this is a half ass photo of laniakea on my way back. chest high and shitty…

i was passing by the new location of Eggs n Things. it was freakin packed at 8am in the morning. i ate there once before and didn’t find anything special, except for the price. 2 eggs, bacon, and rice for $8? wow…. i would be a millionaire if i sold breakfast for that much….

yoga retreat in india? now that sounds good…. namaste!!!

Ted's Bakery….


TED’S BAKERY FRIED RICE LOCO MOCO…. OKI… OISHI… BIG AND ONO….

Hello Aomori!!!

good morning. 5:45am and the waves on the north shore are going off!!! 3-5′ and looking pretty dam good. backdoor? velzyland? rocky’s? i think everywhere will be good. it’s pitch dark but i see 2 guys out and 6 people on the beach waiting for first light. see you all out there. have a nice day!!!
**just wanted to take this time to say hello to everybody over there in aomori. i had fun times and great memories with all of you. hope to see you soon!!! keep warm and please stay away from the tequilla!! haha….

thank you hitomi-san for sending me this photo the other day. tell syoji-san i said hello and hope to see you guys soon. body board ganbatte ne!!!

remember this photo. this was taken in shikoku at the TSSC Users contest after party on april 10, 2005. what a great time we had!!!

and last, i spent 2 days trying to find a good suitcase. when i bought mine about 6 years ago, it costed me $145. the new ones these days cost $400-500. that’s crazy. why would i spend that much when my stuff inside is only worth $100? i’ll just tape mine back together and use it for another year. no worry, be happy!!![:????????$B!r(B:]