good morning. gosh, what a long day it was yesterday. i had a headache all day from the awamori i drank the night before so i was in the back seat of the car sleeping all the way to and back from surfing. it takes over 2 hours to get to the other side of the island but once you get there, it’s well worth it. the green mountains, sandy beaches, and blue water. cant’ beat it….

the waves were pretty fun. i just wish i brought my single fin…. shucks….

these 3 guys are okinawa locals. yashi on the left is the head bartender at hard reef. i visit this guy almost every night. he’s seen me in my finest form… haha… if you ever hear “have a nice day” coming from yashi, you better run because “have a nice day” really means “ha-bu-sa-ke”, or snake sake… and once he pours you a shot, you have to take it. the guy in the middle is youichi-san. he’s a hard core okinawa local. when ever i see him, i feel like i’m looking at one of my good friends back in hawaii. yeah, he reminds me of tat’s, or “eddie”. they look alike, surf alike, and drink alike. and both are super cool and funny guys. then kazubo-san on the right. i think his parents should have named him “mensore”. because that what kazubo-san is. so much aloha!! if he were to run for the government position of okinawa, he could win. everybody loves kazubo-san….

oh, i wanted to thanks to kiyomi-san for yesterdays wonderful breakfast. gosh, i felt like a hawaiian king sitting in the yard with t-leaves, hibiscus, plumeria, eating this awesome breakfast. then when the mango and pineapple came out, oh my gosh…. just like hawai….

and last, i’ve been staying at the club house with the best view around. yeah, i wake up, turn my head a little to the left, and see the deep blue ocean right in front of me. at night, i can hear the waves, and also see the stars from my bed. everynight before i sleep, i put on some okinawa music, stare at the stars, and fall into dreamland. i love this place…. this is a photo i took a month ago when the waves were 8-10′ right in front. this balcony is like the jerry lopez house balcony over there in front of pipeline. everybody is here…. so i’m hoping the waves don’t get good right in front because my dream house will turn into a party house. haha…

tabechau!

we pulled up to suicides yesterday and the waves were absolutely going off. the locals were calling it a 9 out of 10 which only happens a couple times a year. it felt so good to surf in crystal blue water barrels. i had a great session. thanks kinsan for the photo….

this is kimura-san and kazubo-san. if it wasn’t for these 2 guys, i wouldn’t be in okinawa right now. last night, omine-san asked me if i were to compare kazubo-san to any hawaiian back in hawaii, who would it be? i told him, “you can’t compare kazubo-san to anybody else in the world. kazubo-san is one of a kind!! if this world was filled with people like kazubo-san, it would be perfect!!!” and i know that everybody would agree with me…..

okinawa style is “after a great surf with friends, you buy some beers and drink it with friends.” i asked okinawan bikini model friend to join us but she told me she was busy working. umm, maybe next time….

and last, if you come to okinawa, you have to have a good sense of humor. at any point in time, your going to see the craziest things. we use to play “spin the bottle” in hawaii. it’s a game where you spin a beer bottle around and who ever it stops at, drinks. in okinawa, they play spin the penis. you spin the penis around and if it stops and points to you, you drink. sorry if this photo offends anybody but i’m just sharing you a traditional okinawan drinking game…. so if you ever see somebody pull this out in a bar, run away…. haha…
**just wanted to say thank you to all the okinawan boys last night. i had a blast talking about surfing, diving, fishing, and life. you all have warm hearts and i feel so welcomed here. the mensore spirit makes me feel right at home. see you boys again tonight??? [:?????????:][:?????????:]