9am Backdoor. 5′

good morning. buoy 1 is 9 feet 19 seconds so watch out because the waves will jump up to 10′ by evening. right now it’s only 4′ so be very careful. no winds right now so the conditions look pretty good. finally some solid good waves on the way. i’m going surfing… have a nice sunday.. by the way, did you watch the quiksilver pro in australia yesterday? i watched kelly slater lose to wildcard julian wilson. what a heat. it was good to see because finally somebody else is going to win a contest. mick fanning looked pretty solid. more exciting surfing on the way..

ok, for the millions of you who own these olympus underwater cameras, BEWARE!! like any other underwater camera, the seals leak after a while. if you don’t grease it, it will leak for sure. just ask the 10 or so friends of mine who’s camera’s broke. see where my fingers are? put some silicone grease on the black part and this camera every so often and it should last for a long time. if you don’t, expect to buy a new one in a year or so. and these cameras ain’t cheap…

good evening. north/west swell in the 4-6′ range with dam good conditions. finally the winds died down… watching the UFC rampage jackson fight tonight, surfing all day tomorrow. gotta go. have a nice day…
**i met kara-san from blue shock surf shop in ishigeki-jima about 7 years ago. ishigeki-jima is near okinawa and catches some of the biggest swells from typhoons. the waves get 15′ hawaiian scale and if you don’t believe me, i really don’t care because i don’t want too many people going there anyway. haha.. there are secret spots on that island that only locals like kara-san can access….

this is kara-san and i on another secret island near okinawa. this island will remain a secret forever. and if you find out where it is, you didn’t hear it from me. this day was august 21, 2008. one of my best ever japan typhoon trips….

kara-san sent me these photos of his secret surf spot the other day. yeah, waves in the winter!! gosh, i can’t wait to go there this year…. photo by kitajima-san….

and there are huge weird crabs walking all over the place. miso soup??

blue shock surf shop is located on ishigeki-jima. so if your ever on that island, stop by and say hello to kara-san. buy him a beer and try to get him to take you to his secret spots. it might work… haha… thanks for the mail kara-san and i can’t wait to surf, drink, and have fun this coming typhoon season on your beautiful island…