BOSTON RED SOX PITCHER HIDEKI OKAJIMA, MARCH 26, 2008. TOKYO, JAPAN
ONLY IN JAPAN…

good morning. 7am tuesday morning. waves on the north shore came down. looks 3-5′ at pipe with 40 guys out. i think today is the last day of the bodyboard contest? hope so. looks a little morning sickness out there right now. gosh, where are those sheet glass perfect not a cloud in the sky and no wind days? last year it came in march. this year too? i can’t wait… but for now, get use to these weird funky morning sickness conditions because the winds aren’t going to back down anytime soon. town still has that south swell with perfect waist high waves. yesterday evening, bowls looked so fun… anyway, going airport, then going surfing… see ya…

wanted to congratulate australian mark mathews for winning the oakley surfing life big wave award. check out this giant 45′ wave that won him $20,000. i met mark 5 years ago in the philippines during the cloud 9 international contest with the boys, sunny alberton and kingy. these guys are part of the notorious bra boys out of maroubra, australia. i heard a lot about their gang back then but these guys were the nicest people on earth. great people, great surfers. and if you haven’t seen the movie “bra boys”, you should check it out. it’s pretty cool….

this is my favorite pre-drink. it’s called “ukon” and is supposed to be really good in preventing hangovers. drink it before you have a night out with the boys and you should be ok in the morning. well, it doesn’t work all the time. i drank one every night when i was in okinawa, and it didn’t work…

speaking of okinawa, this is awamori from okinawa. every time i see this bottle come out, i run away… the strongest shochu in the world. it will kick your ass!!!

and last, stopped by lotus night club in waikiki last night to check out maki claude’s live event. the place was jam packed with people, mostly japanese girls. it’s amazing how many fans claude has. i went upstairs in the vip area and once i seen the tequila bottle with shots lined up on the table, i ran away and went home. good call…

good evening. had stuff to do today so i stayed in town and jumped in at bowls. it was the warmest day since october. sunny, no wind, clean water, and nice little waves. paradise.. i was watching pipe later on the cams and the bodyboarders scored. 8-10′ and pretty heavy barrels. tomorrow should be another great day for surf out on the north shore….

speaking of pipeline, this surfboard will always be a reminder to me on how lucky i was the last big swell out there. i still can’t believe i made it to the beach without a scratch on my body…

dings on the rails…

dings on the nose….

buckled board….

2 fins completely ripped out. smashed rails. how the heck did this happen???? was i lucky that day at pipe? what do you think??? i’m going to keep this board outside my house as a reminder to SLOW DOWN….