good morning. 6:30am friday morning. hey, the waves came up on the north shore and it’s looking pretty dam good at pipe/backdoor. 4-8′ and on the rise. the only bummer thing is that the pipe contest trials will probably go today, being the last day of the waiting period. those guys are going to score because the waves are still coming up… light trade winds making perfect conditions on the north shore, and in town. speaking of town, SOUTH SWELL AGAIN!!! yeah, shoulder high sets or even bigger in town. and i heard this swells going to last for a while. so once again, waves, waves, and waves. everybody go surf!!! have a safe day….

this is why i don’t like sitting in the inside. where ever i surf, i always paddle out to the peak and never sit in the inside for 2 reasons. one is that i want to catch the sets. and the other reason is because i don’t want to get run over. yesterday at vland, i had the kids so i was sitting in the inside with them. this guy took off on the outside and pulled into the tube right in front of me. i knew he was going to run me over so i threw my board in between him and me. this is what happened…. his fin went all the way through my board. i was bummed out but i guess it’s better than his fin going through my head. that would have sucked….

this is the worst place to get a ding like this because even though i fix it, the board will never be the same. it will always flex here and slow the board down. gosh, i’m having bad luck with boards this year. but once again, a broken board is better than a broken head….

and last, wanted to wish my niece kelia moniz a happy sweet 16 birthday!!! here she is getting ready for her biggest night of the year. yeah, tonight is her sweet sixteen birthday party at dave and busters from 6pm to 12am. see ya there…

good evening. gosh, such a long fun day of surf!! i took kairi, reika, and kota surfing on the north shore today. we checked ehukai sandbar and the waves were pretty dam good, but a little too big for the 3 kids….

so we all went to check velzyland. i thougth the waves were going to be junk because of the north direction in the swell but i was wrong. the waves were going off!! barreling and spitting. no rippers out so we scored big time. and get this, the waves were bigger than ehukai. the kids had their rides of their lives… they looked scared but i was more scared watching them charge. i’m glad the water was a little dirty so they couldn’t see how shallow it was…. awesome session….

then we went to haleiwa for lunch and shopping. these kids are classic. kairi is only 9, kota is 10, and reika is 13. gosh, i’m getting old…

second round, it was off to haleiwa. the lefts were firing and the kids were ripping it up. i really enjoy watching the stoke in the kids faces when they catch a good wave. that’s what surfing is all about…
anyway, i’m dead tired and the waves will be good all week long. have a nice evening and hope your surfing your dream. i sure am…. good night…

good morning. 6am thursday morning. pitch dark outside and can’t see the waves. but by the buoy readings and wind observations, i’m guessing north shore 2-4′ and a little windy. i’m sure there will be somewhere that will be super fun. these kind of days you got to go searching. and searching it is… i’m out of here. have a safe day!!!

i seen 2 lady’s on the beach yesterday checking out the waves at laniakea. i wonder if they surf???
COMMENT: Bastards go eat yourselves! Horses are meant for loving not getting slaughtered and ATE!! Go choke on your dicks asses!
yeah, that was the comment from the youtube video i posted about eating raw horse liver sashimi in japan. i get these hate mail comments sometime and i love them all…. when i travel, i eat anything. even your little dog. haha. just joking…. but i like to explore and will try pretty much anything. including you. haha… check out the horse liver sashimi clip that pissed off some viewer..