good evening. i broke my nose today!!! early morning session at rocky rights. i paddled out and it was only me. dream session for 30 minutes until my new board broke. shit… i got some perfect waves but still don’t know if it was worth a broken board. yasan, i’ll be giving you a call real soon. i need another board…. help…

i headed to check the surf at ehukai and took a few shots. here is a japanese pro bodyboarder mayumi kumagai. gosh, i remember a few years ago when there would be 30 body board japanese chicks out at ehukai on days like this. where the heck is everybody???

i’m always happy to see my nephew joshua moniz ripping it up with the boys. nice turn josh….

this is john john florance’s mom. i’ve seen her out on some pretty crazy ass days… charger family….

and last, here is my shot of the day. this is yukio ogawa doing a pretty big turn. the japanese pro’s were ripping ehukai today. smaller tomorrow but probably the spot again. dawn patrol? i might have to go back to town and grab another board. this photo made the guy hagi news at 5pm tonight. more photos coming tomorrow. good night…

8:30am ehukai beach park. good waves desu…

i just came in from rocky rights. 4′ and perfect. first guy out,
first broken nose..
saki rocky point kara agarimashita. nami wa 4′ de perfect. dare mou
inakatta… saiko!!! demo nose orechatta no… itai…