Diamond Head 11am.
3-4′ and Fun!!!

good morning. 6:30 am tuesday morning. it seems like the swell didn’t pick up too much from yesterday. it actually looks a bit smaller. i see some head high sets at bowls with a little morning sickness conditions. 15 guys are out at kaisers, 12 at rockpiles, and 18 at bowls. the park is a little smaller and there are 30 guys out already. big swell forecasted for tomorrow. wow, i just seen a really nice wave at bowls. i got my new board so i’m going surfing!!! have a wonderful day!!

this was my lunch yesterday at cooke street diner. korean crispy chicken with hamburger curry. sooooo good!!!!!

i was talking to shun before he paddled out for round 2 yesterday. since he’s riding a board with a lot more rocker, i told him to take off, do a deep bottom turn, set up, and come off the top BIG!! then do it again and again and again….. so as i was standing on the jetty watching shun paddle for his first wave, he did exactly what i told him to do. plus more. his fins were out on every turn. gosh, that kid is surfing so much better now. bigger turns and bigger lines. just what he needed to take his surfing to the next level. i hope the all japan surfing championships are in good waves because if it is, i’d put all my money on shun….

i can’t believe i got my new board in 4 days. i put my stickers, waxed it up, and tried it out yesterday…

and it worked sooooo good. the board is so light that i needed weights to weight down the nose. or maybe i should just gain 20 more pounds? anyway, this board is going with me to japan…. can’t wait to ride it in okinawa, shikoku, shonan, chiba, and every where else i go…

good evening. what a great day for surfing. hide-san from fiji and i went surfing at bowls this morning. it was 2′ when we paddled out and the waves kept getting bigger and better. there were solid 4′ sets breaking and the rights and lefts were going off!!! had a great 3 hour session. then it was kewalo’s in the evening. i’m so sunburned and surfed out already. our endless summer is still going, going, and going… have a great evening…

this was diamond head cliffs at 8am this morning. it was 3-4′ and pretty fun. nobody was out at lighthouse, and only 5 guys out at cliffs. wow@!!

i love teaching kids how to surf. especially when their so young. meet shoma from japan. he’s 5 years old and surfed for the first time. as we were out at bowls surfing together, i had a flashback of myself learning how to surf the exact same way at the same age. that started my surfing career. a career that has made my life so dam good. i hope shoma can do the same….

shoma and i were paddling back out after catching a wave. then a big head high set broke right in front of us. we both got pounded off the board and shoma and i were rolling underwater like we were in a washing machine. i had one hand on his jersey so he wasn’t going anywhere and my other hand trying to protect us from the shallow reef. i’d say we were underwater for a good 10 seconds or so. i came up, the i pulled shoma up. his face was in shock! i told him this blows away any ride at disneyland right? he laughed and we surfed more. that experience will probably be with shoma forever….

and last, we finally got our new go-naminori stickers made. i think they look pretty dam cool. if you see me in japan, ask me for stickers and i’ll give you some. if you don’t see me, here’s your chance. i’ll send out 2 stickers to the first 5 people that send me an email @ kirby@go-naminori.com