6:45am backdoor/pipe check. waves 3′ and fun. nobody out…
asa no surf check. backdoor/pipe desu. dare mo haitenai desu….

good morning. 6:30am tuesday morning. shit, i think the west winds are here already. west winds are the worst winds for hawaii. maybe we can sneak in an early morning session if we’re lucky. once the winds pick up, no surfing….. i’m out of here..

remember that maguro we bought yesterday? after that, we stopped by 7/11 to grab heineken beers, matchi and satoshi stopped by foodland to grab ingredients for tacos and burritos. hayato had the honors to cut the fish. and we had the best maguro/mexican night….

no, this is not a dead bat. i cut the maguro head or “kama” in half and put it in the oven. oh my gosh… so good…

hayato did an awesome job in making the sashimi. let me say this, it doesn’t get any better than this…

cholo’s? taco bell? no, dove tacos….

hawaii sashimi, mexican burritos, and german green bottles. this is what you call “an international fiesta”….

and last, imagine driving back to the north shore after an awesome session at some secret spot we all surfed for the first time. our car with a fresh tuna in the trunk, heinekens flowing, pork skins, and a lot of laughter. tokura-san, matchi, satoshi, hayato, and kenji, thanks for yet another awesome day of surfing and our awesome lifestyle…. surfers rule. more on our secret spot later. or maybe not… some secrets are best kept secrets. wait!! i like to share so i’ll draw a map later today. haha…

we pulled up to haleiwa at 8:30am after checking all the way down to mokuleia. nobody was out so when i got out there, i didn’t know how big the sets were until the first 6′ one caught me by surprise and i was done. then the second one pounded me on my head too. then i had to catch a wave in and paddle out again. that’s what surfing haleiwa is all about. you got to take your poundings. in fact, this morning was the first time in my life i was surfing haleiwa alone. only for 20 minutes but i got a few good waves so i was stoked… the current was as strong as it gets and riding a little 6’2 didn’t help. paddling, paddling, and paddling…

we passed by laniakea and oh my gosh!! the waves were 6-8′ and peeling perfectly across….

back to the dove house for a great after barbecue lunch…..

fighting the current at haliewa was hard work. and after a morning of hard work, a nice steak/chicken plate made from the dove house couldn’t be beat…. saiko!!


rocky’s in right out in front of the go-naminori house so i went to check it, even though i knew it was too big. there were 2 guys out there trying to surf it. i said trying… 8′ rocky point is not surfable. unless you call going straight on 8′ closeouts surfing….
**went to an evening surf on the east side at this secret spot. waves going off!! more about it tomorrow. i’m going to sleep. goodnight..