3-4′ Ala Moana Bowls at 6:30 am. Going Off!!!!

good morning. 6 am thursday morning. wow, another south swell!!! the waves are looking like 3-4′ and epic!!! 20 guys out at bowls, and 50 or so at the park. clean morning conditions and probably onshore winds by 9am, just like yesterday. well, i’m surfing all day long… see you in the water….

when i woke up early yesterday morning, i made a mistake. i put dog food in my cereal bowl instead of cheerios. oh my gosh!! what if i put milk in and started to eat it? would i grow hair?? haha… i took it out and put in my favorite cheerios…..

i was out on the north shore the other day and couldn’t believe the traffic. it was crazy…

then coming back was more crazy….

and last, starting today in hawaii, no talking on the phone while driving. if you get caught, you will have to pay. i got my earphone so i should be ok. drive safe!!

good evening. i met everybody down at kewalo’s this morning for a photo shoot and the waves were pretty fun. solid 3′ and perfect lefts. local guy chang was out surfing and i asked him “wow, how’s the summer so far?”… and this is what he said “i freakin cannot believe it”….. yeah, this is the best summer by far….

i’m borrowing mike woo’s board for this photo shoot because i don’t have any small boards that are in one piece. mikes new model is so dam light that i had to put car wheel weights on the nose to keep it in balance. and it worked super good….

photographer kondo-san was shooting us. us was me, shuji kasuya, mito, teppei tajima, jason shibata, and others…. it was cool to have a super session like that. it’s been a while for me…. i hope we all got some shots….

for lunch, it was my secret thai plate lunch shop. do you know where this is? probably not…

$5.90 for a yellow chicken curry plate with sticky rice. cheap yeah? it was so good……