good morning. 5:30am tuesday morning. another south swell today and on thursday. i seen some solid 3′ sets at bowls and the park with epic conditions. no wind making the waves perfect. there are only 4 guys out not at bowls. gosh, i wish i got up earlier…. i have a photo shoot from now so i’m out of here. have a nice day!!!

i was driving through a back road yesterday in town and seen something pretty amazing. yup, a huge mango tree loaded with lots of red ripe mangos. i actually stopped my car to take a better look….

look closely. i’ve been living in hawaii my whole life and haven’t seen a mango tree with this many ripe mangos. 20 years ago, i’d probably just take a few without asking. 10 years ago, i’d probably knock in the guys door and ask him for some. today, i’ll just go to the supermarket and buy some. i guess i’m getting more mature with age. haha…. or maybe tomorrow i will dress up as a young kid and steal some? haha… i would tell you where it is but i know that somebody will go there and steal some at night. gosh, my mouth was watering just looking at it…..

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good evening. first of all, i want to congratulate kelia moniz for winning the girls division at the NSSA nationals in california. and also want to congratulate josh moniz for getting 2nd in the boys division. good job kids…. everybody is coming back tonight, just in time for the next south swell. well, i took 2 days off from surfing because i’m just too surfed and burnt out. i think the whole island is surfed out because the spots were looking uncrowded. another swell tomorrow, and another one later this week. i’ll probably dawn patrol somewhere early in the morning, then come back home to get some work done. we’re working on a huge project for go-naminori and when it comes out, it will be cool. just stop calling me in the meantime so i can get work done.. haha.. just joking.. anyway, better get to sleep soon because tomorrow will be another hot surf day here. good night….

the day i got back from japan, i bought a new speargun because i left my other one in indonesia. recently, the waves and wind have been making it really bad for diving but i had to jump in and test out my new equipment. my friends were having a camp out on the north shore so this one went right on the barbecue….

i don’t know why but there are chickens all over the place these days. as i was putting my speargun away, i was wondering if these chickens were edible? are they??? or should i just leave them alone??? the brown one was looking pretty tasty… i better ask hayato if these are the kind we can eat….

anybody knows where this is? ancient hawaiian history says that if you drive up this road at night with pork in your car, something bad will happen…. i had friends in hawaii that actually tried it but i refused and still do. i don’t want to mess around with the “mana”…. no way….

ITADAKIMASU!!!