6:45 AM SURF CHECK: LANIAKEA CHEST HIGH AND CLEAN!!!

good morning. 6 am here on thursday morning. it’s looking like the south swell picked up a little. i just seen a solid 4+ set at bowls. and it isn’t that crowded at all. the only bummer is that the winds will probably blow onshore early like yesterday so get on it early. and there is a little north swell up in the country. 5 guys are out at laniakea where the waves are chest high. gosh, more swells on the way and everybody’s getting tired. that means more waves and less crowds. that means a lot more aloha in the water. all i’ve been seeing recently are happy smiles in the water. but nobody’s happier than me…. [:????????$B!r(B:]

i really like my car. i keep on wanting to get a new one but i don’t think i need one. the only way i will buy another car is if somebody steals this one. so hey, i’ll park my car at diamond head with my keys in the ignition. steal the car, but leave my boards. haha…

waiola shave ice is the best after a hot day of surfing!!! i always order the large cup with ice cream and azuki beans on the bottom. strawberry flavor of course. and it only costs $3.50. what a deal….

this is sunset beach yesterday afternoon. it was so dam beautiful. i just wish i had my speargun. i saw nainoa surrat riding his bike on the path yesterday so we started to talk. he told me that he was going to go for a dive out at backyards. i was jealous so i told him that the water looked dirty.. haha… it was actually crystal clear….

and last, can somebody guess where this sign is? i think it’s pretty dam cool….

good evening, i had such a long fun day today. it started out at diamond head early morning. the waves were 4′ and building….

meet the newlywed makidera’s from awaji-shima, japan. it is taku-san’s first trip ever out of japan. sanae-san has been to asia before but not to hawaii. so they decided to spend their honeymoon here in hawaii. first time here. and first time surfing!!! we surfed a secret spot on the other side of the island with nobody else out. it was only us and the whole ocean full of waves to ourselves….

we did a lot of sightseeing too. i went so some places i haven’t been to in a long time…

romy’s prawns are the best. i love that place!!!

and it was quite peaceful at ehukai beach park….

then we came back to town and it stormed for 10 minutes while the sky was blue. weird….
got many more pics but not enough energy to post them. will do tomorrow morning. just wanted to say thank you and congratulations to the makidera’s…. i wish you both the best future possible…..