good morning. 6:30am and the waves on the north shore looks really good. 2-4′ and everywhere perfect with these south winds. these are the kind of days where you can surf any spot and it will be perfect. i’m getting excited. backdoor? rocky’s? vland? ehukai? i’m not even going to look. i’m just going to paddle out… hope you get your perfect wave today. by the way, town is onshore and stormy. forget it. you ain’t going to find a perfect wave on the south shore today. go green, go country!!!

hey, look what’s on our way for the next 5 days. rain, rain, haze, and haze. but who cares because the waves should be going off, in fact, it’s going off right now…
**and don’t forget to mark your calendars. my cousin shannon goss wrote another script for the popular drama episode of “ER” airing this Thursday, 12/11 (10 PM in LA, 9 PM in Hawaii on NBC). don’t miss it…


imagine going to india to surf or sight see. you have an overnight transit in the capital mumbai so you check into the taj mahal hotel. your hanging out in your hotel room when gun fire and bombs go off. you turn on the tv to see what the hell is happening. shit, you find out the terrorists take over the hotel looking to shoot and kill any U.S foreigners. so your watching CNN from your room and dial out for help with your cel. phone. CNN gets information that your on the 4th floor. then the broadcast it live, “americans stuck in their hotel room on the 4th floor”. what the heck are they thinking? terrorists don’t watch the news? come on CNN. your lucky those americans weren’t killed. i think somebody in CNN should go to jail for that. that’s an example of the media going too far. if i was in that room, i would have came out and kicked the reporter in the balls. then say “thanks for telling the terrorists where i was asshole”…..
**onto another subject. it was around 10 years ago or so when this new fashion wave hit japan. why would japanese girls over bake in tanning salons, dye their hair white, and put on so much makeup? i couldn’t figure it out and still can’t. but every time i seen one of these girls walking down the street, i would just stare. i’ve always wanted to ask one of them but didn’t have the balls. do you know what i’m talking about? their called “EGG” girls. check it out…

i was watching some heats of the backdoor masters in the comfort of my house. this is my favorite for this contest. shane dorian is super cool, surfs really good, and hunts big pigs with his bow and arrow. he deserves to win…

i stopped by to see roma and taku at their hotel in waikiki. 6 year and 8 year old surfer groms from kugenuma, japan. till this day, i haven’t met any kids that have more energy then those 2 boys. by the way, the guy in the middle is my 24 year old younger brother. haha… just joking. i just got a fresh haircut and i’m feeling kind of fresh….

check out this photo of a guy wakeboarding in the canal in venice, italy. pretty cool shot….

last, i told the guy in okinawa that we don’t have big lobsters in hawaii. i lied. i totally forgot about this photo of one of the biggest lobsters i grabbed. kenji sahara took it at the dove house about 5 winter seasons ago. here’s the story. i went for a surf at ehukai sandbar one afternoon. i did a floater and seen this lobster swimming in the wave. so i dove off my board and tried to grab it. it was too fast, but then it did a cutback and i was able to grab the head. huh? do you actually believe that? haha. actually, i caught that lobster in 45′ deep water on the 3rd reef pipeline. then we had a lobster sashimi party after. if kenji didn’t take this photo, i would have forgotten about it. i might have to go back to the lobster hole again soon….

pipe masters LIVE… waves 4-6′ and perfect. nami sugoi ii yo…..