Monday September15日 2025年

Ichiriki Nabe….

good morning. 5:45 am and the waves are looking really good again. solid 3′ at bowls and there are 13 guys out already. yesterday was packed early in the morning and today will probably be worst. 40 guys or so are at the park. big rights is looking a little too small. the conditions are PERFECT with light winds. the 2 boys are sleeping in my living room and i’m going to throw water on their faces. wanna see a funny youtube? haha…. i bet diamond head is 4′ and pretty clean. where are we going? ummm… that’s a tough one. too many choices. anyway, have a nice day and see you in the water…[:?????$B!x(B???:]
yesterday i ate mcdonald’s for breakfast, and mcdonald’s for lunch. i was getting sick of seeing ronald… so after surfing all day, shun, seth, and i left kewalo’s at 8pm. i already knew that i wasn’t going to eat any kind of fast food. so it was straight to ichiriki. if i go there with 4 of my friends, we eat 2 nabe’s and are full. shun, seth and i ate 2 nabe’s, 2 ramen’s, and 2 rice soup, or zosui. 3 hungry surfers eating food enough to feed 8 people. i’m not going to mcdonald’s for a while. then after we came home, we ate ted’s bakery chocolate haupia pie that yumie brought over. thanks so much yumie and have a safe flight back to japan….

shun now knows how to make an old board into a new one. it was pretty cute how focused he was during the whole project…

after all that hard work, here is shun’s new board. he was stoked!!! and when seth seen his old board, he couldn’t believe it….

seth was busy yesterday too. check out his art work on his new board. pretty good for a 12 year old kid….

and last, i was just checking out hayato’s blog and seen this cute photo his daughter karen and her art masterpiece… this is just priceless….

Joel Parkinson Wins!!!


Parko Going Off!!!
Taikai Sugokatta desu….

Recycle Surfboards….

good evening. i went with shun early this morning for a bowls dawn patrol session. i wasn’t planning to wake up early because we slept so late last night. i got up to use the bathroom at 5:30am and thought i’d check the waves. oh my gosh!!! bowls was going off!! i woke shun up and we were in the water 15 minutes later…. bowls is the hardest place on the south shore to catch waves and i wanted shun to work for every wave he can get. getting dropped in and getting snaked all day will surely make anybody mad….. and hungry… so that was the point… i hope he takes that anger and uses it in a right way. because if you want to catch good waves in the world, you have to work at it. nothing comes easy when it comes to that. and bowls is the best place in the world to get dropped in and snaked. haha….

toda-san and takami-san were out surfing with us. takami-san got so many good rights… score!!!

then we went to the pet store to look at little fish…

shun stayed over my house last night so after dinner, we were watching the WCT j-bay contest live online. then i went to grab seth’s old board from under my house. it was kind of bust up and ugly. so shun and i gave it a make over. it was almost 10pm when shun was taking off the wax and sanding the board for a new paint job. it’s all about recycling… wait till you see it….

by the way, i just sold my yamaha 4 stroke 4 hp motor. i sold it for cheap and the guy who bought it scored a deal…. why did i sell it? because i’m getting rid of old toys making room for new ones… haha…

getting back to shun’s board. this is in the process stage. we slept at 12 midnight last night working hard on it….. it was kind of fun seeing shun so excited. i’m trying to teach the kids how to recycle…. i hope it works….