march 1, 2008 10:47:51 AM. the best north shore spring ever? yes it was. during that month of perfect surf, i surfed the best waves of my life, and shot the best photos of my life. and also screwed up my eye, requiring surgery. was it worth it? maybe…. i think this is tory barron going left at off the wall. check out u-ske front row getting the shot. gosh, i would love to see his angle…. now you see it, now you don’t. another photo deleted off my computer forever…..

surfing photos i delete. photos like this, i keep forever. this is halloween 2005 in hawaii. classic….

bigger and better. perfect wave and perfect diving. going to another island. be back tomorrow.

9/11/2003 10:31 AM. only 2 years after 9/11. travel advisory warnings still posted at embassies warning americans traveling to the philippines. even though my friends and family tried to talk me out of it, i went. we were on a boat for a week going around remote islands where terrorists were known to be. was i scared? heck yeah. i slept in my trunks with a lot of money in my pocket. my passport, mask, and snorkel near by. i had a plan. if terrorists tried to hijack our million dollar yacht, i was going to jump overboard, dive down, and try to escape. i slept like that every night on that trip. then when we pulled up to surf spots that nobody has ever surfed before, terrorists were the last thing on my mind. it was surf first, worry later… check out our yacht in the background. then these 2 locals came to witness what nobody in that area has ever witnessed before. SURFING….

this shot john callahan took was published in a magazine. it’s at the same spot in the photo above. this is a better view of our yacht anchored in the back. sick yeah? we surfed that spot all day long and it was only us. i don’t think we even named this spot. did we?? we surfed our brains out that trip. found 2 new spots that i know when i go back, nobody will be there. surf expeditions pay off…