Saturday November2日 2024年

Meet Buggy, and Meet Mina….

good evening. what a perfect surf day in hawaii. light winds all day and the kids were calling kewalo’s all time. i was calling diamond head all time. well, got to pack my suitcase and get a flight back to japan tomorrow. more sushi, but please no alcohol…. oyasuminasai…

when ever i go on a boat trip, i’m prepared. 2 tshirts, 2 trunks, japanese rice, nori, miso, and wasabi is all i need. at about the 10th day of the 2 week trip, i start to crave japanese food. that’s when i bust this out. first, i get the rice going. then go spear a fish, clean it, cut it up into slabs, chop it up fine mixing in onions and miso, get the nori ready, mix the wasabi in shoyu, then it’s all about hand roll sushi. taste like a million bucks….

meet buggy. derek doesn’t mess around when he gets into something. when he finds a new hobby, he goes full 100%. this is his VW dune buggy he built from scratch. everything is top of the line and probably could enter and win a car show. full 100%. and when derek got back into surfing a few years ago, it was 100% too. he probably has more boards than me in his room…. haha…

meet mina. mina nagashima is a pro surfer from atsugi that lives the life in okinawa. surf/yoga/have fun. she has a great life!! check out her blog that she updates regularly…. CLICK HERE FOR MINA NAGASHIMA BLOG….

Perfect Diamond Head….


wow, i just got back from diamond head. left at 7am and back in my house at 8:15am. pulled up to cliffs and seen this… 3′ epic perfect no wind surf….

took a peek around the corner and lighthouse was the spot. if i were to rate lighthouse on a scale of 1 to 10. today was 9.95. paddled out with carissa moore, caught 5 epic waves, and i was done… now i have the whole day ahead of me…. see ya…

Airplane Crash in Hawaii?

good morning. 6:30am. no wind and perfect conditions. great for diving. but with all these sharks recently, no thank you. and after 10 days of feeling shitty from a cold, i finally woke up feeling normal. got to pack my suitcase and get ready for another journey. have a nice day….

i was at sand island yesterday and seen this huge fire towards the airport. it was freakin huge. some guys at sand island were saying that an airplane crashed. really???

i’m going to be in bali for a stop over next week so hope i have some time to pick up a new gun from andre’s shop. ever since i started using his guns, the fish have no chance. if i aim for the head, that’s where the spear is going in. pretty simple….

and last, i was going through my iphoto library deleting photos. 30,125 photos are making my computer run slow. i stopped at this photo because i thought it looked pretty cool. i took this photo february 20, 2008 at 10:01:09 AM. it was during the womens bodyboard contest at pipeline. i couldn’t figure out who this is. does anybody know her? pretty sick perfect pipeline wave. now you see it, now you don’t… deleted forever….