Please don’t eat them….

another good chilly morning here in hawaii. 6:30am and i’m in sweatpants, sweatshirt, and socks. and still cold… waves looked like it dropped on the north shore. your best bet will be laniakea again. probably 2-4′ and super long fun rights. gosh, i had a great session yesterday and was thinking about this nice 5′ wave that i rode all the way across in my dreams last night. it might be worth the drive to head back out there again today. going to spend the morning doing my taxes, and jump in the water somewhere after getting all stressed out… doing taxes sucks but if you don’t do it in america, your going to jail. just ask sunny garcia….

i was video chatting with hayato last night. he’s up in hokkaido playing in the snow with tokura-san and friends. gosh, i wish i were there. i remember when i went there a long time ago… it was snowboarding, jumping into an onsen, drinking hot sake, having a great time, and waking up in the middle of the night in waist high deep snow almost frozen to death. i ain’t kidding…

when i was chatting with hayato, he opened his hotel window and stuck his computer out the window so he could show me the mountain. the sky is blue? gosh, i live in hawaii and forgot what blue sky looks like. thanks hayato for making me a little jealous. i’m going to take my computer and pull into a big barrel at backdoor while we’re chatting. how’s that!! haha…

hey, wanted to congratulate my hawaiian buddy over there in okinawa joshua lacar on the new edition of his family. Joshua Kahekili Lai Lacar Jr. was born 2 days ago in okinawa. josh and asano gotta be stoked!! i’m stoked for you guys….

this photo was taken august 27, 2008 at hokulea in the beach resort. josh and asano got married that day and came straight to hokulea. i remember how happy they were. isn’t life so cool. meet your true love, get married, have a baby, and live happily ever after… congratulations again!!!

good evening. woke up to what i thought was going to be a shitty day for surf. but i was wrong. i pulled up to laniakea at 11am and the waves were going off!!! solid 5′ with bigger sets breaking all the way across. i paddled out the way your not supposed to on big north swells because you will get cleaned up. as i was going to jump in with my 6’0 and thin competition leash, this surfer dude came up to me and said “abunai”. i guess he thought i was japanese. so i said “daijyobu” which means “no worries mate.” he shook his head and walked away. as i jumped in, i knew he was watching me and wanted me to get caught by a big set. i timed it right and made it out untouched. i looked back to the beach to see if the guy was still there and was ready to give him a shaka sign. then there it was, a big 6′ set coming down on my head… shit… i didn’t want to snap my leash so i didn’t let go of my board. i held on and the wave shook me up like a rag doll. i came up a little dizzy and said, it’s time to surf…. i had such a good session with my small board. i felt like kelly slater… haha…

i surfed at 11am. i ate this big lunch at 10:30am. on the way out, i stopped by my favorite local plate lunch restaurant and ordered my favorite liver/bacon, chicken cutlet combo. it was so good….

then i went to the go-naminori house to pick up the girls to bring to town. we went to champa thai, then went to a bar to sing karaoke, then to a strip club, then danced all night long… haha.. just joking… we had a great talk in the car driving back from the north shore. yumie and yumi are helping me out with a book i’m writing. haha.. that’s a joke too… 2 cool girls….

and last, since i haven’t gotten barreled for a long time, i’m going to stare at this photo for the next hour and dream. this backdoor day seemed like years ago…. i can’t wait to do it again…