Set her Free

Had an amazing time with the Fukuzaki-san family.  A surfing experience like this will be etched in 9 year old Riku-kun’s mind forever.

This sailboat tried to go out of the channel at night and missed the channel marker.  Why?  I don’t know.  It was stuck on the reef all day long but thankfully when the king tide filled into the afternoon, it set her free.

But not before damaging the coral.

Thank you Allen for keeping your eyes on the girls.  This is an amazing photo you captured!

Teaching kids about the ocean is more important than teaching them about surfing.  You won’t and can’t learn things like this in school.  This is real, this is nature, this is hands on experience, and this knowledge will last a lifetime.

Well, no swells on the way so we’re getting ready to hunt for food.  Fish and tako on the way!

July 22, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Small waves equal big crowds…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Poke and Cocktails

Isn’t it amazing how blue this summer has been?  It seems like every single day the weather has been perfect.  Perfect for everyone!

I took the girls out this morning to find a wave we could surf all to ourselves.  It’s pretty easy when you have good surfboards, open minded girls, and a boat.  I usually let the girls go out first to figure out the spot, then I’ll jump in after and catch all the good waves.  Haha.

I wanted to try a few boards today so this is the best way to do it.  Kelia let me test out her personal longboard and OMG, it felt so good.   Also tried out this 7’6 Tokoro which turned out to be magic!  But the best way of riding waves today was definitely on a foil.  Felt like a free bird again!

The girls are practicing for the next big swell so we are keeping very active.  Learning how to paddle better, learning about the ocean, and learning how to keep calm.

And most importantly, learning how to ride any type of board on any given day.  Because when the waves get huge, you better feel comfortable on anything you’re riding.  There is no room for uncertainty.

So nice to be on the foil again.  I flew around the ocean for a little, then came back on the boat and thought about making my next dining table.  Perfect for poke and cocktails!