Surf your dream…

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It’s so sad to see another boat that ran aground on our precious reef.  This one is right at Bowls.  

But pretty happy to see the golden sunrise again and again.  

And good rides on her new 5’10 which is looking really good.

Round 2 with the beautiful Fukuzawa-san family.

Papa Fukuzawa san surfs really good.  Great ocean sense and a good surfing style.

9 year old Riku kun riding waves and smiling the whole way.  He was so energetic and caught about 20 waves.

Mama Maya san on some really long rides.

When you can surf and smile at the same time, that means you’re enjoying the ride to the fullest.

Riku kun was so comfortable that he was giving me the peace sign when we were riding together.  

Fukuzaki-san on the power bottom turn on one of the shallowest reefs on Oahu.  Rockpiles lefts…

I’ve been taking Leo surfing since he was a little boy so we have a good bond.  Surfing created that bond and now it continues.  Leo is growing up into a fine young man.  Our conversations aren’t about kids stuff anymore, it’s more about young adulthood.  A very smart young man that can surf really good, considering he only surfs when he comes to Hawaii.

We rode some beautiful waves together.  I was cheering from behind as he was enjoying the ride.

Leo told me “I remember you telling me that the ocean fixes everything.  Remember I had a bee sting last time and it hurt.  Then once we entered the ocean, the pain was gone.  And today my shoulder was hurting but now the pain is gone.”  Yes Leo, the ocean fixes everything!

Nice looking fish came swimming through the lineup.  All I could think about was sashimi!

Ended the day up at Tantalus.  Fresh air, nice view, and very romantic…