I’ve been taking Leo surfing since he was a little boy so we have a good bond.  Surfing created that bond and now it continues.  Leo is growing up into a fine young man.  Our conversations aren’t about kids stuff anymore, it’s more about young adulthood.  A very smart young man that can surf really good, considering he only surfs when he comes to Hawaii.

We rode some beautiful waves together.  I was cheering from behind as he was enjoying the ride.

Leo told me “I remember you telling me that the ocean fixes everything.  Remember I had a bee sting last time and it hurt.  Then once we entered the ocean, the pain was gone.  And today my shoulder was hurting but now the pain is gone.”  Yes Leo, the ocean fixes everything!

Nice looking fish came swimming through the lineup.  All I could think about was sashimi!

Ended the day up at Tantalus.  Fresh air, nice view, and very romantic…

Yesterday once more:  Go Leo!

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

That swell was still here this morning.  Really nice conditions and very few surfers.

Things are back to normal as the Uncles are controlling the lineup.  Laughing, making jokes, and taking turns.  This is what surfing is all about.

Mr. Smiles taking off in the right place.  Good to see you catch all those perfect waves again and again Malcom!

The “duck dive” feels good.  Pushing your surfboard under a wave and feeling the energy of the ocean flowing like a river through your face and body.  Perfecting this will enable you to catch more waves, get out faster, and break less boards.  It’s all good.

A perfect duck dive!

These 2 girls are training for the next big swell.  So now they won’t be paddling in from Bowls anymore, they will be swimming in.

Went out for Round 2 this afternoon with this amazing kid.  Photos coming tomorrow.  Goodnight for now…