This photo will be looked at over and over by the girl who dove under this big wave.  Her blue 6’4 surfboard looks like a toy compared to that wave.  I don’t think she really knew how big that wave was.  This photo will also be looked at over and over by the guy who unsuccessfully made it under that wave in time.  That little black dot is his head and when this wave came crashing down on him, it took him so deep down that everything turned black.  Barely making it to the surface, he survived and will be telling this story to his kids and grandchildren for the rest of his life.  Just by this single wave, 2 lives changed.  Welcome to the big wave world ladies and gentlemen.

Yesterday once more:  Leftovers for everyone…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist to chest high sets and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We were surprised to see the swell still hanging around this morning.  It was much bigger than expected but that’s great news!  Nakagami-san going backside.

Yes, another beautiful morning.  Less wind so glassy conditions.

The Energizer Bunny keeps on going, going, and going.  She will never turn down a surf session.  

From starting off on a 11’0 longboard and standing up for the very first time of her life, now she’s comfortable on a 6’1 shortboard and almost to the goal of a 5’10.  It’s been a long process but her goal is coming really soon.

The trash in the Ala Wai Boat Harbor is getting out of control.  20 years ago there use to be only sticks and leaves.  

Now there’s full bags of rubbish!  That’s pretty disgusting!  And also very sad to see this.