Randy@Bowls

Good morning 3:15am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Today was such a beautiful day to be in the ocean.  All day long!  

This mornings surf, the girls were pushing each other up another level.  I always teach my students that this is where you want to be standing on the wave when taking the drop. This is where you get the first initial speed burst!

Then the bottom turn is next.  This one timed perfectly.  You can tell by the spray coming off the  back of the surfboard. 

My foil scraped the reef and I almost fell off right in front of this ride.  That would have been a disaster.  Luckily we both kept calm and survived. 

Backside surfing is the same.  The bottom turn being the most important.  

A good bottom turn equates to a good top turn.  Just like this.  And once again, spray coming off the back of the surfboard.  Good job girls of displaying good surfing technique.  

Round 2 was back to the beautiful Diamond Head.  

This girls best performance on her brand new magic board!

When I first started shooting photos, my family was my main subject.  I would swim for hours and hours trying to get the shot.  Somedays we would hang out at Backdoor all morning long.  I would wait in the impact zone until I see movement and when my subjects moved, I would get into position.  Here is Tony Moniz on the first one.  Check out this classic Backdoor style.  

Then Joshua would ride a wave and he would have the exact same style as his Dad.  Look above and see the resemblance.  

Seth was always the tube master from a young age.  He was really good at finding the barrel.  Or maybe because I would always yell “PULL IN!!!”  Haha.  Seth’s probably one of the youngest kids that ever surfed Backdoor.  

Gosh, I miss being able to play around with the kids like this.  Time sure flies…