Time Flies

When I first started shooting photos, my family was my main subject.  I would swim for hours and hours trying to get the shot.  Somedays we would hang out at Backdoor all morning long.  I would wait in the impact zone until I see movement and when my subjects moved, I would get into position.  Here is Tony Moniz on the first one.  Check out this classic Backdoor style.  

Then Joshua would ride a wave and he would have the exact same style as his Dad.  Look above and see the resemblance.  

Seth was always the tube master from a young age.  He was really good at finding the barrel.  Or maybe because I would always yell “PULL IN!!!”  Haha.  Seth’s probably one of the youngest kids that ever surfed Backdoor.  

Gosh, I miss being able to play around with the kids like this.  Time sure flies…

July 24, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Back in the Day 2008:  Tokura-san and Nakajima-san at the Eddie Aikau @ Waimea Bay.

Good morning 3am.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and little bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

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Sunday morning flying with foil and camera.  So FREE!

Takami-san on the rights.

Second turn.

Passing by.

Pre-sunrise set.

Nice positioning.

Shallow and smooth.

Toda-san on the set of the day.

Long perfect Bowls left.

End of the ride.

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