Early morning lover…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

We’ve been going out earlier and earlier.  It’s still dark but for some crazy reason, we can see clearly.  Dark is the new normal.

Surfing as the sun is rising, laughing as we cheer each other on, it can’t get any better than this.  Beautiful Boot Camp in progress.

Some people want to get better in surfing and the only way is to want to learn.  I scold a lot and hardly praise, but that seems like the only way it works.  You push a person to their lowest, then it’s only going to go up from there.

And when your surfing level goes up, your whole life follows.  This was the best shot of the morning.

Just finished eating a healthy nabe dinner.  Goodnight.

People are wondering why there are so many shark sightings recently.  Sharks have always been around.  It’s just that everyone has a camera now.  To me, a shark coming up trying to bite my boat is normal.  

It’s the windy and wild days like these that will make you a stronger surfer.  So if you want to get good, you better challenge yourself.

Boat trip snack time! 

I’ve been surfing my whole life and I’m having the best time right now.  Getting old is pretty cool!    

The last typhoon in Japan, Tokura-san caught this magical wave at a secret river mouth.  At 74 years old, I think that is so amazing.  It reminds me of the times we went on surf trips around the world.  I would always tell myself “when I get older, I want to surf and enjoy my life the same way Tokura-san does.”  And till this day, I still feel the same.  Very inspired.  Keep on surfing Tokura-san!!!