Paddling out early this morning and paddling in around lunch time. We surfed for 5 hours which was my longest session in 5 years. I didn’t know I could still surf for that long. Haha.
The waves were still big so Yui-san was a little nervous paddling out. But after a few waves, the nerves went away and the nice bottom turns begun.
The best view in Hawaii! Awesome surfing!
Takei-san is a very good surfer. We haven’t surfed together for 5 years so I forgot how long he likes to stay out in the ocean. 5 hours later, he still wanted to ride more waves.
I think Takei-san caught 40 waves today? Wave after wave after wave. After the 4th hour, I was dehydrated, sunburnt, thirsty, and delirious. Takai-san kept on going and going. If I didn’t say it’s time to go in, I think we’d still be out there now.
A Fancy Fresh fruit mango/strawberry smoothie refilled my energy tank. And a 3 hour nap when I got home. Now I’m up getting ready for sleep because tomorrow I foresee another very long day. Going to surf all day everyday while this South swell lasts. Good night!
