Another day of perfect waves.  A little bigger than yesterday and much more cleaner.  Dean on his longboard flowing on this perfect right.

The ultimate goal was to get this girl on the shortboard.  We started on the 11’0 longboard and worked our way down slowly.  Yesterday I let her try a 5’11 twin fin and told her not to have high expectations.  It’s going to be a struggle catching waves because the board is so small.  She caught a few waves yesterday which was a success.  Then this morning, she paddles out the 5’11 and rides 15 waves!  I couldn’t believe it!  That’s pretty dam good girl!

Then I went back out with Marley.  Marley is a young high school graduate who wanted to surf for the very first time.  After a few waves, she took off her reef boots and wanted to ride bigger waves.  By the end of our session, she was paddling into sets on her own and riding them for a minute.  A very energetic girl!

Yesterday once more:  Malcom again and again…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning was another beautiful day!  Where else in the world can you get waves like this every single day with absolutely picture perfect conditions?  I don’t know anywhere else but Hawaii. 

Now that all the basics are perfected, it was time for this girl to try something smaller.  It’s like getting off a bus and jumping in a Ferrari.  

She paddled into her own wave and surfed it so good.  I was very impressed!

Then she flew by me and rode it all the way in.  It goes to show you that once you have a solid foundation of surfing, you can ride anything.  After this wave, I had to beg her for my board back.  Haha. 

New board and new wetsuit!  All Tacoma Gray.  My new Dove 1mm front zipper is now my favorite!  It feels like an extra layer of skin.  Zero resistance, keeps me warm, keeps me from getting sunburnt, and keeps the jellyfish away.  I love it!  Thank you Tokura-san and everyone at Dove Wet!