First time surfing with Yakushiji-san. Just by the way he was talking about surfing on the ride over to the beach, I knew he was going to have fun! 
After this wave, he told us this was the best wave of his life. 
Then he caught more and more which were even better and better. It was so cool watching Yakushiji-san with the biggest smiles paddling back out. 
One from behind. This must feel so good surfing right into Diamond Head. 
When we all surf together, everyone gets better. It’s like a little friendly competition where everyone pushes each others limits. And this brings out the best in every surfer. 
After surfing all those low tide mornings, the afternoon high tide sessions are almost too easy. 
This is flow. The only way to live life…
