It was so cool surfing with Yagi-san and Shion.  And it was so cool seeing them enjoying nature right under a rainbow.  

I asked Shion “who taught you how to surf?”  he said “my Dad.”  I was really impressed with this kids style.  Not too many 11 year olds have a cool surf style like this.  

Then when Yagi-san took off, I saw his style and understood where Shion got it from.  That was so nice to see.

First light…

Good morning 3:50am.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
WQS Surf Into Summer FINALS DAY!
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

There is a WQS contest at Bowls now so all of Hawaii’s top men and women pro surfers are competing. Before the contest starts, everybody is out practicing so I took my student out there this morning. It’s a very different vibe so I wanted her to experience it. She ended up catching 5 waves with all these guys out so that was an experience in itself.

I’ve known Larry for about 35 years. I haven’t seen him in the past 20 years and all of a sudden, I see him every day now. Super happy see you back smiling in the water Larry!

Another very low tide morning. The tide has been so low that even the locals have been cutting their hands and dinging their boards on the reef.

When you see the pinkish part of rocks exposed, that’s how you know it’s shallow. So shallow that the crabs on the rocks don’t even know what’s going on.  Haha.