Fujiki-san at sunrise.  Only a surfer knows the feeling…

Good morning 3:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head waist to chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds getting stronger at 20mph.
Sunny and warm with rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

This morning the waves were very small so it was time to fly!  It’s pretty amazing how a knee high wave that doesn’t break can feel so good.  

The conditions were absolutely perfect!  

My baby is looking very young and beautiful.  

I haven’t foiled in a while so the workout was intense.  After a couple of waves, I couldn’t breathe.  

Fujiki-san riding over the beautiful shallow reefs of Waikiki. 

Surfing has made me a lot more comfortable on the foil.  The speed and flow is double the pleasure.  

The ocean will cleanse you.  Just dip your head underwater and when you come up, you will be reborn!

I just finished watching this on Netflix.  It’s called “The Days” which is based on true story of the Fukushima Daiichi nuclear disaster.  It was very educational and very shocking to me.  I had absolutely no idea on what was happening at the Fukushima nuclear plant at that time.  Now I do.  Please watch it.

Japan’s government put up an evacuation zone of 20KM from the nuclear plant.  American’s government issued a warning for 80KM.  They told Americans to defer travel to places like Tokyo, Chiba, and everything North of that.

One of my friends sent me this chart of radiation exposure the day before I left for Fukushima and said “be very careful.”  I looked at the chart and told him “I wish you didn’t send me this.”  But at that time, there was no turning around.  It felt like we were driving right up into an invisible war zone.  It’s almost like preparing for death.  Before that particular trip, I remember giving my little Princess a hug like it could be our last one.  To her, it was just like another trip, but this one was different.

I failed my science class in high school but my teacher would have been very proud of me because this is real science.  As we approached Fukushima, things started to get real.  You can’t see, feel, taste, or smell radiation so it’s basically a silent killer.  Yes there was radiation in the air, but where and how much?  That depended on the weather and wind.  My dosimeter alarm went off a few times but we kept on going forward.

Now we reach 25KM from the Fukushima nuclear plant and this is when you realize everything is real.  And we were very unprepared for this.

This is the “Do not enter” zone exactly 20KM from the nuclear plant.  They evacuated the whole area so it was like a ghost town.  This is where our first “We Are One” mission started.  A mission that changed my life forever…