Ala Moana Eagles…

Good morning 3:15am.
South swell here!
Ala Moana chest high and getting bigger.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf.
Have a wonderful day!

I was thinking since today was the last small day before the next South swell, we’d go surf somewhere totally different.  So we took the boat.

I sent the girls out and had them figure this new surf point on their own.  The did so good that I didn’t even have to paddle out.  I just watched the show from the boat.    

When the swell is so small like it was today, you have to go searching for something bigger and better.  This was the best spot today.  It was so clean!

I stayed on the boat watching the surf, and watching the sunrise. 

And also watching the rainbows. 

Good job girls!  So cool and so calm.  Get ready for the next South swell because it’s coming!

Mateus has a new family member.  This puppy is cute, but nothing is more cute than Mateus.  

Now Mateus has 2 dogs to keep him company.  But he’s still so cute.  I wish he can stay this young forever.  

Just a couple days ago I almost got a 11’0 longboard in my face.  I caught it right in time.  

Then yesterday I wasn’t expecting this again.  I thought my advanced student knew better.  

This one even closer to my face.  Sometimes I get home and wonder why my hands are so sore.  Probably because of this huh.  Why can’t everyone look forward???