Jeannie Chesser:  The Queen of Bowls…

Good morning 4am.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high.
Light trade winds so good conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Morning session at Bowls.  Clean and super fun.

Barak turning off the top. 

Barak throwing big spray. 

Malcom always smiling. 

Smiling all the way.

Good waves, good vibe, good day, and good night.

Back in 2004, there was a typhoon spinning right above the Philippines so I flew there, chartered a boat, and explored some of the most remote areas in Mindanao.  I was a bit nervous because there was still a Level 3 Travel Advisory for Americans NOT to travel there.  Yes, the Abu Sayyaf trained in Mindanao and tourists were getting kidnapped and killed at that time.  In the day, we would search for waves that were never surfed before.  At night, I would sleep with my passport in my pocket, and mask/snorkel next to my bed.  And when I heard noises, I would grab my snorkel and get ready to jump into the ocean.  That was my way of surviving terrorism at that time.  But in the end, riding perfect waves like this felt 100% more rewarding because of the 1000% risk.  My friends called me crazy, and my Mom called me stupid.  

Mayuki went back into the ocean were she belongs.  Now it’s time to explore. 

Driving through Waikiki and saw something familiar.

Yes, that’s my niece Kelia Moniz with her toes on the nose!