Fly-by Waikiki…

Good morning 4:30am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

I’ve been to the Philippines many times throughout the past 20 years.  Each time I experienced a real local chicken fight.  It’s illegal in Hawaii, but it’s culture in the Philippines.  It’s loud, it’s exciting, it’s intense, it’s bloody, and it’s beautiful to see the local communities getting together.  This is their way of life…

Sometimes we might be eating the chickens that lose, but that’s culture too.  Traveling with Tokura-san and Hayato into the deepest cultures is always a treat.

I use to travel as a surfer/photographer so when I’m not surfing, I’m shooting.  Here is Tokura-san on a secret right.

Hayato from under.

I use to take a bottle of Jack Daniels where ever I went.  After a long day of surf, one drink to celebrate the day, and one drink for the next.  We would cut up plastic water bottles to make cups, make our own ice, and make our own drinks.  We could survive…

Diamond Head yesterday was super good!  Scored!

Good morning 2:45am.
Happy Mother’s Day!!!
North shore 4-6′ from the North.
Ala Moana knee high and box jellyfish.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Sun, showers, and rainbows.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!