Waking up early in the morning when the sirens ring.  That means a boat full of shirasu is coming in.  We run down to the harbor and the auction begins.  

This is old Japanese auction style.  I’ve been coming here for the past 25 years and nothing has changed.  And I hope it never does…

Winner takes all! 

A cold morning on the shirasu boat.  This is the part of Japan I enjoy the most.  No tourists allowed…

Cheese…

Good morning 3:45am.
North shore chest high and coming up. Perfect.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
Light trade winds so nice conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

It was another beautiful morning in the ocean.  Super clean and glassy.

It’s so cool to see the dolphins looking so happy these days.  No boats chasing them so they can just enjoy the jumping to themselves.  OH, one boat called “Dolphins and You” chased a pod and got caught.  They got fined $1,000 and now everybody is watching them.  Leave the dolphins alone!!!

Been trying to stay away from the crowds so back on the foil.  It’s crazy how surfing so much recently made my foiling a lot better.  I can actually carve the wave!  Thank you Wesley for sending me these photos from today!

This is the ultimate feeling of FREEDOM!

Mayuki and me.  I’m so grateful to be alive…

I passed by Bowls on the way back and it was small and crowded.  No thank you…