Geisha Barrel

This was the first time I ever got served by a Geisha.  I was totally mesmerized.  I kept on staring at her because I’ve never seen anything so beautiful before.  It’s much better than what you see in the movies.  This was real!  

Sometimes I can’t believe that I traveled from Hawaii to Mexico to spearfish.  Mission accomplished.  

I once went bed shopping and told this girl to lay down on this mattress to see if it’s comfortable or not.  One minute later, she was sleeping.  So I bought it.  

Big Right’s has been my favorite since 1987.  Nothing in life feels better than a barrel.  Nothing!

May 3, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Yesterday Happy Day:  2 more magic boards to my collection!

Good morning 3am.
Waves everywhere!
North shore overhead and perfect.
Ala Moana head high and perfect.
Diamond Head overhead and good.
Light trade winds so really nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to surf, surf, and surf.
Have a wonderful day!

Summer Surprise

It’s pretty crazy to surf a solid swell on the North Shore in May.  It’s usually flat so why not take advantage of it.  I woke up at 3am ready to go!!!  

One surf report was calling it 10′ Hawaiian scale.  Another was calling it 16′ faces.  I’d say it was 5′ Hawaiian scale or 10′ faces.  If you look good, that wave is way double over my head.  And yes, it was perfect!    

I can’t help but smile after an amazing surf session.  And I’ll be smiling in my sleep tonight because tomorrow will be good again!  

Another day in paradise.  Thank you for sending us this beautiful surprise!