I was the youngest of the 5 Uncles that were out yesterday at a spot outside of Ala Moana Beach Park. These Uncles surf out there everyday and one of them said that this is the best it’s been in over a month. As I was taught in Japan, you always have to respect the locals, especially the Uncles, especially if you’re surfing their spot. It was a little tense in the beginning because even though this is Hawaii, I was an outsider to them. I sat in the inside like a good boy. Then after seeing these Uncles ripping, it really inspired me. They were at their spot, talking, laughing, and taking turns. After a few waves, we started talking and they ended up being super cool. It made me realize how deep surfing is. It’s so deep that after all these years, I still feel like a little kid. Thank you again Uncles!
