The Amasan Tako Hunter…

Good morning 3:10am.
Ala Moana waist with chest high sets.
Diamond Head chest high.
Trade winds at 15mph so good conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Light winds this morning so perfect conditions.  Everybody was expecting the waves to be smaller than yesterday but once again, everybody was wrong.  It was bigger, cleaner, and a lot less surfers.

Went surfing with the 3 girls and they were helping each other, cheering for each other, and having a wonderful morning.  Rio-san told me that she caught the best wave of her life today.  Stoked!

So cool to see the girls coaching the girls.  All of them know the process and when they can help each other, the process is much faster.

The process is speeding up now as the surfboard is moving the way it should.  Pushing off the back foot and surfing off the rail, just like this.

Then you can go higher up on the wave and do nice turns like this.  It feels amazing.

Between the 4 of us, we probably tried over 8 different boards this week.  From the start, they could instantly connect, surf it good, and be comfortable.  I’m wondering what they want to ride tomorrow?

I went to pick up Mateus from school.  He’s still so happy to see me and always gives me a big hug.  BUT, I know as he gets older, that will change.  He’ll only shake my hand, and will be embarrassed if I try to hug him in front of his friends.  Haha.  But for now, I’ll give him big hugs and will also teach him how to cross the street properly.    

I grew up eating avocados from this tree.  Now that the kids live there, they can grow up eating avocados from this tree.  Not to be bias, but these avocados are big, creamy, and the best in the world.  

Thank you Saint for helping me pick the avocados.

Carter told me of a new way to cook steak properly.  I tried it and it was the best steak ever!  So tender, juicy, and delicious.  I ate it along with avocado sashimi.  It was a very happy dinner!