Remember when I told you that this girl will get barreled someday?  Well, her surfing is getting much better so it’s just a matter of time.  This morning at Bowls, the waves were perfect!  The swell direction was finally normal again so the lefts were barreling.  On this wave, I was yelling “go, go, go!!!”  I thought this could be the chance of her getting barreled.  Everything was lookin great!

Then she got barreled!!!!  Well, not barreled like she would have wanted to, but she’s still in the barrel.  Haha.  Next time I hope she’s standing on her feet when the barrel goes over her like this.  We’re getting there girl!

There have been so many turtles recently.  They will just swim right up to you.

Round 2 was at Diamond Head.  Very wild, very challenging, and very humbling.  The girls won’t give up until they master this spot.  That takes time so that’s why we’re there practicing almost everyday.

Back to the Pipeline Pro.  Just making sure Seth’s boards were waxed up properly.  I get nervous doing this.

Dana@Bowls this morning.  Sick wave Dana!

If you ask any surf good surfer, he or she will tell you that the very first bottom turn is the most important part of the wave.  This is where you set up for everything, this is where you time the energy, and this is where you start the flow.  If you have a good bottom turn like this, everything that follows will be amazing.  

And the more you lean into your bottom turn, the more the surfboard will go on the rail, and the faster you will go.  Make sure your back foot is on the tail of the surfboard right above the fins.  Make sure your weight on your back foot is pressing the gas pedal at 90%, and let your front foot press at 10% as that is your steering wheel.  Try it and you will look like this.  Absolutely perfect!