We looked at Diamond Head early this morning and it was crowded.  So we got back in the car, drove a few minutes, and paddled out to a secret spot with only two other surfers out.  The sun was coming up and the waves started to get bigger.

Solid overhead sets with a lot of power.  It felt like we were surfing the North shore.  After a good hour of solid rides, we got back in the car and headed back to check Diamond Head again.

Diamond Head was irresistible.  Super clean and really fun.

All we needed were a few of these to be content.  Went in for a break and we already knew where we wanted to surf again.

Yes, noon at Diamond Head was as good as it gets.  Head high and really clean.  I haven’t surfed Diamond Head this good in a very long time.

And the weather finally warmed up too.

Another great session today.  Happy faces everywhere!

From coming from freezing cold temperatures wearing 4 layers of clothing, it was very pleasant to jump in the ocean with a pair of surf trunks.

Watching this girl surfing better and better is rewarding.

Of course, I’m riding in back yelling “cutback!!!!”

Excellent day of surfing!

And the walk back up the mountain will never get easier.  Breath and keep calm…

The big happy ocean…

Good morning 4:40am.
North shore 10-12′ and bumpy.
Ala Moana chest high and cleaning up.
Diamond Head shoulder high and good.
Light winds today so still bumpy but better conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!