Yesterday once more:  The clean bottom turn…

Good morning 4am.
North shore 8-12′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and clean.
Light winds today.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

We pulled up to Bowls in the dark.  On the beach were 18 box jellyfish.  Nobody was out because of that so we waxed up and were super excited.  Ryu-san on the mid-length board again surfing it well.  

Men love challenges.  And going down to a shorter board is always a challenge.  But when you’re strong minded and your surfing skills are good, anything is possible.  Good job Ryu-san.  

By the time this surfers Boot Camp is over, he will have ridden a thousand waves.  I can see him getting stronger each day.  Better wave knowledge, and much better timing.  

Tomorrow I’ll put him back on the shortboard and we shall see how he does.  I’m sure he’ll be great!  

We went back out for Round 2.  Naito-san surfed 3 days of Boot Camp and caught about a hundred waves.  Her level is way up and her smile is bigger than ever.

I already logged in 7 rounds so far this year.  Loving the ocean more and more…

Yesterday afternoon was so good.  Only 4 other surfers so we basically caught every single wave that broke.  Between the 3 of us, we must have rode 80 waves!

Naito-san said she’s never caught so many waves in her life.  Each wave she was getting better and better.  Very smooth and lots of flow.

And never falls.  All perfect rides from the take off to the very end.  Such a cool surfer.

When you can finally smile on the take off, you know you’re calm.  And when you’re calm, life is good.

I forgot how dangerous Boot Camp is.  I try my best to ride along on the side yelling instructions and taking photos.  But, it’s not the safest thing to do.  I get boards in my face all day long.

And if you ever got a 11’0 hard longboard in your face before, it hurts.  It can actually knock you out.  But nobody said Boot Camp was safe.

Another one that almost hit me.  That’s about 12 times in the first 3 days of the year.  Every night I go home, my hands hurt.  But better than my face huh?