Day 1 of 2024

There’s only one place in the world where you will find me on the first day of each year.  That place is the ocean right at first light.  Had a lovely time with the boys today!

The last time I surfed with Konosuke-kun was 5 years ago.  Now he’s a man!  And he didn’t forget how to surf.  He surfed so good!

Ryu-san surfing nice and strong again.  One of the coolest doctors in the world.

Father and son surfing at first light on the first day of year is cool.  Riding a wave together makes it even cooler.  I love it!

I’ve seen a huge boost in confidence in this surfer after surfing North shore.  And that confidence is growing and growing every day.  It’s amazing how a surf session could change your life.

Now everything will be a little more comfortable in the ocean.  This man has no fear anymore.

I was waiting for this day to bring out my fresh brand new wetsuit.  I wanted to start it off right.  It felt warm, comfortable, and cool.  Dove for life…

Welcome to 2024

First light of the year. It’s going to be a good one!

January 1, 2024 Hawaii Surf Report

Happy New Year 2024!  Wishing all your dreams come true…

Good morning 4:15am.
North shore 6-8′ and good.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high and bumpy.
Trade winds back at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful first day of the year!