Past Bedtime

OMG, compared to yesterdays wild wind and waves, today was the total opposite.  It was perfectly glassy conditions with head high clean waves.  

After Boot Camp in yesterdays wild conditions, today was too easy for Takahashi-san.  She surfed so good, so comfortable, and so confident.  

It’s unbelievable how good she got in just 2 days.  Yes I had to yell and scold her a lot, but it’s for a good cause.  That’s the only way to get better and my job is to do everything and anything to bring out the best in people.  And I don’t apologize.  Only if they cry.  Haha.  

Yesterday there were nobody out, today there were 50 surfers out.  

No crying for this girl.  She was only laughing the whole way.  Then she looked at her Apple watch and it said her last wave ridden was 155 meters.  That’s over 500 feet of pure joy!  

We went back out for a sunset surf until it turned dark.  Photos coming tomorrow as it’s already past my bedtime.  Goodnight.

Next Goal?

Learning taught me a whole lot more about the ocean.  Now, I can read the ocean 10x better than ever whether on my foil, surfboard, or boat.   Everything makes more sense.  

And to be able to jump back and forth between foiling and surfing was my goal.  Now I’m thinking of the next goal.

So good to see Rocco sing live at the Night Market.  I was very impressed on his voice, composure, music, and most of all, his confidence.  Great job Rocco!  

Rocco’s fan club.  Was an amazing night with family and friends.  Can’t wait for the next one!

 

November 20, 2023 Hawaii Surf Report

Living the dream life…

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore 10-12′ and stormy.
Ala Moana chest high and cleaning up.
Diamond Head head high and getting better.
Trade winds back at 20mph.
Rainy morning clearing up later.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!